Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
